Bosnia & Herzegovina Travel Guide: Where to Go, Costs, Food & Solo Travel Tips
The stunning historical settlement of Počitelj, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Bosnia & Herzegovina has slowly been growing in popularity for a travel destination that is ‘off the beaten path’ and it is definitely worth visiting before it becomes wider known! If you choose to visit as a one country trip or tie it into a larger trip around the Balkans, it is somewhere that shouldn’t be skipped when thinking of countries to visit in Europe. From my experience of mentioning the country to friends, I think it is still relatively unknown and for older generations there are assumptions that it is not safe. But Bosnia & Herzegovina is a beautiful country with stunning scenery, lovely people and one of the best coffee cultures!
It’s home to a stunning UNESCO World Heritage site in Mostar Old Town, a really cool city in Sarajevo and with plenty of other stunning spots to visit on day trips, it’s not to be missed. It does however come with some very sad history and it’s impossible to ignore the aftermath of this. Whether it be within the damaged buildings or the harrowing stories you might hear first hand from the locals, it’s a really unique place to visit where the mix of resilience and beauty is undeniable.
Where is Bosnia & Herzegovina?
Bosnia & Herzegovina is located in Southeast Europe and makes up part of the Balkan Peninsula. It is bordered by Croatia to the worth, west and southeast, Serbia to the east, Montenegro to the southeast and a small stretch of coastline facing the Adriatic Sea. With its proximity to so many other countries it’s easy to explore more than one in one trip and you can easily move country to country by bus.
The breathtaking beauty of Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina
History of Bosnia & Herzegovina
One of the most significant eras for Bosnia & Herzegovina was when it was a conquest of the Ottoman Empire. The Empire sprawled across such large areas for such a long time that although it collapsed almost 150 years ago, its influence is still seen throughout the country. Following this period they were under Austria-Hungarian rule and then more recently, before gaining independence in 1992, they were part of Yugoslavia. Communism often comes up against criticism but I found it really interesting hearing from those who remember it in a positive light, or more so that independence has left the country in a weaker position. If history is your thing, you can really dive deep in to with conversations with the locals.
Unfortunately their new found independence didn’t result in a happy ending. It in fact led to war amongst different nationalities living within the newly independent Bosnia & Herzegovina. To this day you can see damaged buildings and large cemeteries that remain as reminders of an extremely sad time for Bosnians. Also to this day within Bosnia & Herzegovina, which is technically two part in one country, Bosnia being one and Herzegovina being the other, it is also split in nationalities. You will hear people referring to, Bosnian, Croats and Serbs often, showing that segregation still exists. Due to this continued plight for visibility within the country, Bosnia & Herzegovina actually has three presidents! In one way you can see that they are doing their best to unify and listen to all but in another it shows just how much it still matters to everyone. It really is such a unique situation and country to visit and learn from.
A quiet moment at the Childhood War Museum in Sarajevo
Is it safe to solo travel in Bosnia & Herzegovina?
I always felt safe whilst travelling in Bosnia & Herzegovina. This is likely due to the kindness of the locals who always helped me when I looked lost (I often do!). As with any large city, I would recommend being careful with your belongings in Sarajevo. In most cities I know, including the one I’m from, pickpockets are common so it’s good be aware. Having said that, I haven't met anyone who had issues there and I always felt comfortable. I would really recommended getting an eSIM before you arrive though, just for your own peace of mind. If you’re used to having EU roaming data it may come as a shock when you drive over the border and your phone service completely disappears!
Places to visit in Bosnia & Herzegovina:
Mostar
If you have ever seen pictures of Bosnia & Herzegovina it is very likely that you would have seen pictures of Mostar. The Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which is carefully looked after to maintain its traditional appearance in the cobbled streets and famous bridges. It’s the perfect place to start your trip and a great base for taking day trips.
Sarajevo
Sarajevo is the capital city and has a very different vibe to Mostar. There’s morden shops with a cosmopolitan vibe and coffee shops and bars that could be mistaken for being in a city in Western Europe. However it also has the Old Bazaar, where tradition has remained so you really get the best of both worlds here. Not to mention the towering mountains you can see and take an easy trip up to via a cable car.
Kravice Waterfall
This towering waterfall is a popular spot to visit with good reason! At 25 feet it cascades in to the beautiful turquoise waters below and makes for the perfect place to spend an afternoon. You can swim in the water, just be wary of the current! Or you can take a boat ride closer to the waterfall itself.
Blagaj
Blagaj Tekke is a 16th century Dervish monastery built in the huge cliff face towering over Buna River and another spot that you will often see on travel inspiration pictures for Bosnia & Herzegovina. Considered to be one of Bosnia & Herzegovina’s most holy sites, it’s an ancient setting that you will be glad to have added to your list.
Kravice Waterfall & Blagaj Tekke are really easy to visit in one day trip from Mostar, along with some other beautiful historical sites. Unless you have a car, its tricky to visit all of these spots on your own so I’d definitely recommend this tour I took: From Mostar: Blagaj, Počitelj & Kravice Waterfalls Day Tour
Foods to try
Bosnian food is hearty and delicious! With it’s blend of Balkan, Mediterranean and Turkish influence from the Ottoman times, expect a lot of meats, stuffed vegetables and filling pastries.
Cevapi - Minced beef or lamb sausages served with bread and onions. It’s often considered the national dish and you’ll find it on most menus.
Burek - Thick filo pastry pies filled with meat, spinach and cheese or potato. These are so filling and great for the budget!
Dolma - Vegetable stuffed with meat and rice. Usually peppes, tomatoes, onions or in leaves. Super delicious and filling but less on the heavy side.
Ajvar - A delicious spread made from roasted red peppers and aubergines. Often eaten with bread and a white cheese.
Coffee! I can’t talk about Bosnia & Herzegovina without talking about the coffee. If you are a coffee lover, you will love indulging in the coffee culture here. It’s all about slowing down and enjoying your coffee instead of a grab and go situation. Very similar to a Turkish coffee, a Bosnian coffee is very small and very strong. One of my favourite experiences was visiting Cafe de Alma where the staff will happily explain the traditional way to prepare and enjoy the coffee.
Stunning scenery out the window, it very unexpected from the bus journey from Mostar to Sarajevo!
Is it easy to travel around Bosnia & Herzegovina?
It is relatively easy to get to Bosnia & Herzegovina as you have the option to fly in to Sarajevo airport or get a bus to Sarajevo or Mostar from neighbouring countries. A lot of people pop in to Bosnia & Herzegovina with a quick bus from Croatia to Mostar. That is where I started from and it couldn’t have been easier.
Getting from Mostar to Sarajevo or vice versa is also super easy. You can either get a bus or the train, both of which I would recommend booking in advance and both of which have some stunning views out of the window!
For visiting other parts of Bosnia & Herzegovina, I’d strongly recommend day tours. It’s not very easy to visit other parts as the bus schedules can be irregular or non existent. If you do want to tour these spots on your own, it would be much easier if you can rent a car.
You can book the bus journeys with 12Go
You can book the train journey with Omio
Costs & Currency
The currency is Bosnia & Herzegovina Convertible Mark (BAM|) which converts at around 2 BAM per Euro. Cash is widely used, especially in smaller shops and some businesses prefer it so make sure you always have cash on you. ATM charges are high so I’d recommend one larger withdrawal rather than smaller ones. A lot of prices are discussed Euros in tourist spots like souvenir shops or when booking a tour which makes things simpler. Some hostels will trade both so it’s always worth seeing if they’ll take your remaining BAM in exchange for Euros when you leave.
In comparison to Western European countries, Bosnia & Herzegovina is a much more budget friendly country to visit:
Budget - €25-25 per day
Mid-range - €40-€60 per day
Hostels: €8-€15 per night
Hotels: €30-€50 per night
Local Meals: €2-€5 for a local dish
Full meal with drink: €5-€12
Coffee & Beer from €1
Useful Apps
Google Translate - download offline maps if you’re arriving with no phone service
Mobi Matter - to get an affordable eSIM for arrival. Use code GINAGOESTRAVELLING for in app cashback.
Glovo - easiest way to order food deliveries
Surfshark - For safe and secure internet browsing across your devices
Sunny Sarajevo
Is it worth visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina?
It is absolutely worth visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina! It’s still such an underrated destination where you can feel safe to travel solo and get to take in the stunning beauty of the country and learn its unique history. Although it’s not one of the most visited tourist destinations in Europe, it is still tourist friendly and super easy to arrange travel, tours and accommodation. I highly recommend visiting before more people find out about the real hype of Bosnia & Herzegovina.
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